Lights on a DR2 or DR1 do not turn on (or are dim)
See also Dim Lights first
AL-WS-DR2 verification first | Action | Result |
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No DR2 or DR1 installed | Are LED wired to an On/Off switch, check the model number of the fixture | Only 48v type fixtures can be used without a DR2 or DR1. If you attach a 660 mA directly to the 51v power source (or via an On/Off switch) the bulb will flash – maybe only once, and might be damaged. |
Verify that 48v or 51v present at the AL-WS switch. | Count the number of LEDs | If there are 7 or more LEDs in series, the lights will not turn on at all. If there are 6 in series, they will not be bright enough. See "dim lights". |
Power to AL-WS is OK, No Light | Reversed LEDs (one or all) | If any of the 5 LEDs are wired backwards, none will turn on. Use the R@R-CCT as a reverse detector – insert it instead of a fixture one by one to see if the red light goes on, indicating a reverse connection. |
Broken Wiring |
If any wiring to the LEDs is broken, none will turn on in that string or CCT color. If there might be a cut wire, remove the wires from the DR2, bypass all LEDs by plugging the male/female together, then measure 0 ohms on each up loop and down loop. If there is an open, make a short circuit OJ-606 and move that short from fixture to fixture until the break is found. |
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Using 48v LEDs in series | If you are using the Value LEDs (48v model) in series, they will not turn on. The 48v LEDs must be wired in parallel. | |
Defective Fixture |
If the AL-R@R-CCT test fixture works but the P023R6 or DL-120 (etc.) does not work, or only one color works, then the fixture is defective: a) Check that the fixture side of the OJ-606 is intact. b) The internal wiring may have been damaged in shipment – ask for a replacement. |
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No 48 or 51v at the switch |
Check if polarity is reversed (minus 0.8 volts) Check for broken wires – check the power panel port first |
Power is shorted and the supply has shut down (it will blink the power light at the load center). |